It quivers in golden, glistening stillness to begin. But it climbs up the glass. Slow and sure. Breakfast is served! Maple bacon, pancake batter, cranberry gravy, chocolate chip cookie dough in mid-bake. Some musty oranges, tempered by uber-ripe cantaloupe melon. We’re a long way from the days of old for this distillery, but we’re also closer to its true, stodgy, thick and loveable heart. Water gives us golden sultanas, fruit load, seed breads and toasty, buttery, comforting warmth. A glow of golden syrup comes drizzling from on high. In the mouth it rolls in like a wave of sweetened squirty cream. Syrups, dark fruit extracts, brown sugar caramelising in a pan with butter. Warm brioche, croissants freshly liberated from a hot oven, hazelnut chocolate spread, earthy, subtle wood spices and little teaspoons of treacle. Water lifts up the earth, the forest freshness, the dusty rafters and the tobacco pouches. It’s all rather emotional in the end. What was, what is and what’s been lost...