SAUTERNES! Exclaimed the panel in unison upon first nosing. This is a total smorgasbord of stewed prunes and figs smothered in ancient petit champagne cognac, old boal madeira, botrytis, herb encrusted game meats, camphor, an ocean of rancio and sultana compote. Water tames things a little but it’s like trying to pin down a lithe and stubborn old wrestler. There’s pine resin, precious hardwoods, exotic spices, graphite oil, minerals, cloves, pencil boxes, old ink wells and ancient balsamico. Neat, in the mouth, there is a slick of soft tannins, blackcurrants, bramble jelly, long-aged herbal liqueurs, walnut wine, more rancio, tar liqueur, waxy lemon rind, menthol tobacco, sage and damp dunnage notes. Water brings pressed wild flowers, cinnamon and a wealth of aromatic teas: chamomile, jasmine, lapsang souchong. Beyond this there’s heather, biltong, aged pinot noir, cured meats, red liquorice and old plum wine. What a ride! In a bourbon hogshead for 26 years before transfer to a fresh Sauternes barrique.